surfing polynesia

Surfing Polynesia

On first arrival to this tropical paradise the trade winds
were blowing out the swell on the south side, which happened
to be the side from which all the big swell was hitting. There were
some small but fun waves hitting the leeside of the island (see
the first two rows of the table below). The swell on the south
side got to double overhead by midweek unfortunately the trades
kept blowing. Eventually I was able to surf some great reef passes
when the winds finally blew out. It was head high to 3 feet overhead
on sets. Very hollow waves with spitting barrels and a very dangerous,
shallow coral reef. The reef managed to take off three of my
four fins on my kneeboard.

water temp: 76-82 degrees F
air temp: 75-80 degrees F
Locals: extremely friendly
reef: beautiful but deadly
swell: Big, got bigger, got insane
and then tapered off to fun size
grinds: outstanding seafood
Overall: a great trip! I'm going back!
There is a secret spot waiting for
me on an uninhabited island
some fisherman had told me about.
It's name is......................